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The City of Cartago

The city of Cartago was first built in 1563, and suffered various disasters including floods and destructive earthquakes. It was the capital of the country until 1823, when it was moved to what is now San Jose. It suffered more serious damages with the devastating 1910 earthquake. In 1963, the eruption of the Volcano Irazu destroyed more buildings.

The church of Cartago, the Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels, is an important pilgrimage center in Costa Rica. Every year, on August 2^nd, thousands of people make their way to the church by foot, from all over the country, to pay their respects to La Negrita or Black Madonna and help them with healings. The original statue is kept in a golden shell, where people queue up to just get a glimpse of her, hoping that their prayers will be answered. Thousands of charms, showing parts of the body to be healed, are on display near the Virgin. The date of this pilgrimage coincides with the day of the miraculous appearance of the small carved image of the Virgin Mary to a young Costa Rican native girl in 1635, and it is said that there has been more appearances since that day. The church was later erected on the exact spot where the miracle took place and the rock can still be seen in a crypt. Some devotees still believed that the earthquakes were divine signs indicating that it should be rebuilt just there. They wash themselves in the water running from where the miracle took place, and this water is said to be pure, free of chemicals or impurities. The church itself is an interesting Byzantine building with a mix of colonial arquitecture thrown into it due to some restoration work undertaken after an earthquake partially destroyed it in 1639. Inside the Basilica, it is quite dark. Its unusual decoration is however not without its charm and is certainly very unique, being almost totally covered with artistic woodwork and painted in gold.

Not far away from the Basilica de Los Angeles you can visit the ruins of what was the first church of the city of Cartago! As one walks inside the ruins, which are part of the central park, it is easy to feel that this was quite an impressive and awesome building. It was however abandoned following the 1910 earthquake.

Another church in the region is well remembered, being the actual first church of Costa Rica. The first settlers, while exploring the eastern central valley, fell upon a group of indigenous native and decided to christianize them. Thus the Orosi Church was erected, until it was later on abandoned due to recurring floods and pestilence. It is now a national protected monument. Incidentally, the Orosi valley is one of the most beautiful region of Costa Rica.

There are not many places to stay and eat in Cartago, but what is there is very good. Try the Los Angeles Lodge, in front of the Basilica in the center on avenue 4, which offers very clean rooms and an excellent service, or the Valley Verde House, 1 km on the Orosi road. The place, surrounded by nature, offers a panoramic view of the magnificent Orosi valley, and is close to the Lankaster Botanic Gardens, the Tapanti Biological Reserve, Guayabo archeological site, and of course, the Irazu and Turrialba volcanoes national parks. Try Restaurant La Torre, for authentic Italian Food, some 125m East of the ruins, or Café Galeria, on avenida 2 between calles 6 and 8, where you can admire local artists’ paintings while enjoying breakfast, lunch, cappuccinos and pastries. Further away, on the road to Irazu, Restaurant 1910, with typical food served in authentic ambience.

by Mireille Darras.